Wednesday, February 25, 2009

On the Road Again: Part 2

After a few days in Antigua, we shuttled up the mountains to Lake Atitlan. Like Antigua, Atitlan is surrounded by volcanoes and is picturesque.

Photo of Kevin and Amy with a lake and mountains in the background

Kevin and Amy on the rim of Lake Atitlan

The communities that line the shores of the lake have distinct personalities and are incredibly popular with American and European backpackers. After arriving in Panajachel, we hopped on a public boat and headed to Santa Cruz, a quiet and laid-back village on the north shore.
Photo of a busy street
Street scene in "Pana"
(Check out that electric distribution system!)

Photo of a Maya woman in traditional clothes holding many Maya textiles Maya crafts vendor

Photo of a lake and mountains framed by a doorway View of the lake from our room

After a night at Atitlan, we decided to begin making our way back to Honduras. We spent another night in Antigua and then shuttled back down to Copan.

On the shuttle, we met Justin, an English traveler who was nursing a butchered leg. He had been on a hiking tour of Pacaya, one of the volcanoes near Antigua, when the volcano began erupting. As the lava spewed, his guide yelled “Run!” His group suffered numerous injuries, ranging from burns to cuts and dislocated shoulders (from tumbling down the scree-covered slope), but they also made Page 4 of the national newspaper. We spent the entire 5-and-a-half hour ride chatting, and Justin joined us in our adventures for the next few days.

The next day was Sunday – and my birthday. We headed to the Maya ruins for a repeat visit to the most ornate site in the Maya world. We also visited the museum, which had been closed for renovations on our previous visit several years before. That night, we played pool and air hockey and bar-hopped through Copan.
Photo of a stone seating area with mountains in the background
Copan's main plaza (one side only)

Photo of Justin with a Copan plaza in the background
Justin cheezing it up with our guide's
feather staff and a Honduran lempira note,
which features the scene in the background
Photo of a carving of a man's face
Close-up of the "Old Man of Copan"
Photo of Kevin standing in front of a mythical carving and copying its pose
Kevin copying his favorite Copan carving

Photo of Kevin playing pool

Playing pool on the deck

On Monday, we headed back to the eastern shore and overnighted in Copan. The next day, we ferried back to Roatan. (This trip, the ferry earned its “Vomit Comet” moniker. As passengers got progressively more seasick, the crew made the rounds handing out plastic puke bags.) Justin joined us in Port Royal a few days later, and we resumed pondering what to do with ourselves.

On the Road Again: Part 1

As we pondered our future, we decided to make the most of a bad situation and hit the road. We had been to eastern Guatemala several times, but we had never made it up to the Western Highlands and wanted to check it out before (or if) we left Central America. Plus, our visas had just expired, and we needed to renew them. So we decided to try our luck at the Guatemalan frontera.

We left Matt’s at first light (about 5) in the morning to boat in to Oak Ridge. From there, we hired a taxi to the ferry, locally nicknamed the “Vomit Comet.” Luckily, the seas were fairly calm and we made it to the mainland without any seasickness.

Photo of ships in a harbor with mountains in the background

View of the La Ceiba harbor from the ferry

Once in La Ceiba, we hired another taxi to the first-class bus station and travelled in style courtesy of Hedman-Alas across Honduras to the western city of Copan. The next day, we bought shuttle tickets and headed north to Guat.

We spent the first few days in Antigua, a beautiful Spanish colonial town surrounded by volcanoes. It was amazing and such a treat after the isolation of Roatan and Port Royal. The city is gorgeous and filled with fountains, churches, restaurants, art, and handicraft shops. It was also very clean, safe, and organized.

Here are a few pics:

Photo of an ornate church painted yellow and white

Church near out hotel

Photo of Antigua's main plaza with the center fountain in the foreground The main plaza


Closeup of a fountain detail, a statue of a woman Kevin's favorite fountain

Photo of a woman washing her hair in a basin at the end of a long corridorMaya woman washing her hair
in a public wash area

Photo of Amy and KevinAmy and Kevin having drinks
in an Irish (!) pub


Photo of one side of Antigua's main plaza with a volcano in the backgroundView of a volcano from near the main plaza

Photo of a statue of Jesus with a volcano in the background

Statue with volcano in background

We spent our days walking the streets and exploring the courtyards tucked in the centers of the blocks. We also found a Burger King! Yum … American French fries.

Photo of plain building with a small gold Burger King sign

Antigua's Burger King

Monday, February 9, 2009

So long, farewell, auf Wiedersehen, good night

It’s official. We’re outta here.

The lodge owners have decided to return to Roatan to take over management of the lodge themselves. They have taken a beating in the recent economic downturn and decided to let us go to save money. At least, this is the “official” explanation.

In truth, there were a lot of other issues at the lodge, and it’s a bit of a relief to be gone. I’ll leave it at that and move on.

So we are now jobless and homeless in a third-world country -- just where I wanted to be at this stage of my life. Great.

For the moment, we are holed up next door at Matt and Corrine’s while we try to figure out what to do next. We can’t go home -– at least, not to our home, which is rented out until September -– and we’re not sure we want to stay. Time for a little soul-searching.

I wish I had a Magic 8-Ball!

Friday, February 6, 2009

More Fun With Crocodiles

The crocs are restless on Roatan these days.

Last week, I took Jeremy down island to run errands and post flyers to promote the lodge. One of our stops was the ferry terminal to pick up packages shipped from the mainland. On the way in, I was explaining to Jeremy that crocodiles are said to live in the gully right next to the ferry parking lot. Just as I finished, we saw this huge dude on the bank!

Photo of a crocodile on a bank

A resident croc at the ferry terminal


Now that’s a croc!

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Free Radicals

In early February, Ed and Julie, the previous lodge managers, dropped by Port Royal for a day of debauchery in honor of their almost-completed boat, Spirit of Free Radical. They bought the boat more than a year ago and have been working hard ever since to get her back into shape. And they’ve done wonders. She really is gorgeous!

Here are a few shots of the party.

Photo of people dressed in togas and palm thatch headbands popping the cork on a bottle of champagne

John, Cassie, Jeff, Julie, Ed, and (?)
celebrate with champagne



Photo of Ed and Amy

Ed and Amy

Photo of a group of dingies and one panga tied to the back of Spirit of Free Radical

The "parking lot"

Monday, February 2, 2009

Inspired

Jeremy’s excitement about Roatan has inspired me to take more time to look around and enjoy our surroundings.

Yesterday, I found this snake in some shrubbery behind the restaurant. He was very long and very skinny. He was also a bit camera-shy.

Photo of a snake in a palm treePhoto of a snake in a palm treePhoto of a snake in a palm tree

The snake slithering through a palm

And a few days ago, I found this out by our gardens. Our staff has been working hard to clear the remnants of the old garden, which had become woefully overgrown, and prep a new garden to get ready for the planting season in March. When I went to check on their progress, I nearly tripped over this giant toadstool.

Photo of a large toadstool with a lighter laid on top for scale

Giant toadstool by the garden

If only I could find a morel that size!